Hermes Izmir Sandal Men Epsom Calfskin Noir

All-black footwear has a reputation for being invisible, and mostly that reputation is deserved. This sandal is the exception, because everything is black: the Epsom calfskin upper, the leather sole, the leather edge, the insole and the lining. Nothing flashes when you cross your legs, and up close the cut-out is the only geometry you see.

The leather is Epsom, embossed with a fine grain so the surface stays matte and even, which is what black needs to avoid looking like plastic. The sole stands around six tenths of an inch and is leather throughout, giving a firmer step than the rubber-soled versions of this model.

Sizing covers 40 to 46, and the firmness of Epsom means the sandal holds its proportions no matter how often it is worn. I took my usual number, wore them twice around the house and then walked a city in them for a weekend without trouble.

Two warnings, both fair. Leather soles should not get soaked, so rainy days are not their moment. And black on black shows dust and pale scuffs on the upper more than any other colourway, so a brush and a cloth belong in your routine if you want them to stay deep.

Worn with a black polo and tailored shorts, or with a grey suit in summer, they do the job of a formal flat without ever looking shiny. After two seasons they have faded to a soft charcoal in the creases, and I like them more for it.