Hermes Izmir Sandal Men Epsom Calfskin Noir Gold

Black outside, gold somewhere in the mix, and a cut-out that lets the foot show through: this colourway takes the plainest silhouette in the collection and gives it something to say. From arm’s length it is a black sandal; a step closer and the second tone is visible, which is exactly how I like a detail to work.

The upper is Epsom calfskin with its embossed grain, firm enough that the H opening keeps a sharp outline through a full summer of wear. The sole is fourteen millimetres, flat and close to the ground, so the profile stays slim enough to work with a tailored trouser as easily as with shorts.

For fit, the range is 40 to 46, and with Epsom I would not count on the leather relaxing very much; if you are between sizes, take the larger and let the strap over the instep do the fine tuning. Mine have kept their exact shape since the first day.

The honest drawback is maintenance. Black Epsom in a matte finish shows every pale mark, particularly around the strap where a sandy hand grabs it, and a light scuff from stone steps stands out for a day or two before a brush blends it back.

Worn at a long dinner under warm lighting, the gold note is the piece that stops this from being another black sandal, and that is worth the extra attention it asks for. I have stopped counting the evenings it has been the only interesting thing in an otherwise plain outfit.