Hermes Izmir Sandal Men Epsom Calfskin Gold

The best detail of this sandal is on the inside, where almost nobody looks. The insole and lining are cut in gold calfskin, the same tone as the upper, so when you take the sandal off the whole shoe is warm inside instead of the anonymous beige most brands use. It is a small thing that changes how the pair feels. I noticed it the first evening I took them off in a hotel room, and it has pleased me every time since.

Underneath, the story flips: a black leather sole with a black leather edge, about six tenths of an inch high, which frames the gold upper and keeps the silhouette flat rather than festive. The vamp is cut through with the H opening, and the whole shape stays close to the foot.

The range runs 40 to 46. A leather-soled sandal like this needs a couple of weeks to mould, and the flat profile means your step shows in the sole exactly where it should. Mine settled after three or four long walks and has been comfortable ever since.

Two honest notes. The gold insole is where wear will appear first, because it takes the full weight of the foot, and no thin lining stays perfect forever. And a leather sole dislikes soaking, so a week of rain is when this pair stays in the cupboard.

Gold does something unusual in a men’s wardrobe: it softens dark trousers and lifts a white shirt without ever looking fancy. Worn with navy or charcoal, it is the sandal people ask about.