Hermes Jumbo Belt Buckle & Reversible Leather Strap 38 mm Box 135 and Togo Calfskin Brushed Permabrass Buckle Yellow Gold Noir Gris Mouette

Some belts are jewellery for trousers; this one is a working piece. The Jumbo plate is wider than the usual buckle, and on a 38 mm strap, an inch and a half across, it reads as deliberate hardware rather than a detail. Denim, heavy cotton and casual tailoring suit it far better than a fine wool suit does.

Two leathers share the strap. Box 135 is the glossy, smooth calfskin: it has a deep shine out of the box and settles into a gentle patina over the years. Togo is the opposite character, pebbled and matte, and it forgives everyday wear. Noir sits on the Box face, Gris Mouette, a soft seagull grey, on the Togo side, and turning the buckle swaps one for the other.

The buckle itself is brushed permabrass, a warm gold tone with a non-reflective finish. It avoids the hard flash of polished metal, picks up the brass hardware on bags and boots, and mellows further with age. The grey side is the one I wear most in winter, since it lifts charcoal coats without turning into a statement.

Two honest points before you commit. First, a 38 mm strap will not always pass through the narrow belt loops of tailored trousers. Second, high-shine Box marks more readily than the grained side, which is why many people make Togo their everyday face and keep the glossy one for dinners and travel.

Sizes run 80 to 115 cm, taken as a waist measurement rather than a total length.