Hermes Izmir Sandal Men Epsom Calfskin Etoupe H221824ZHX4390

Most flat sandals hide their construction; this one puts it on show. A black leather sole with a black leather edge sits under an etoupe calfskin upper, and the raised edge frames the foot the way a welt does on a proper shoe, which is unusual at this height.

The reference for this colourway is H221824ZHX4390, and the details behind it matter: the insole and lining are cut in the same etoupe calfskin, so the sandal is warm grey-taupe throughout once it is on. The H opening carries through the vamp, and the sole stands about six tenths of an inch.

Sizes 40 to 46. Because the sole is leather rather than rubber, the sandal feels firmer underfoot and moulds slowly to your own step, taking a few weeks before it acquires that personal worn line at the ball of the foot. The etoupe lining stays cool in the hand and soft under the arch, which is the part your foot notices within the first hour.

Worth knowing before you commit: leather soles want dry conditions. A wet pavement will soften the sole and dull the black edge, so these are sandals for terraces, tiled floors and dry evenings rather than beach showers. Keeping them out of the rain is the entire care instruction.

Paired with grey, olive or charcoal, the etoupe tone is the most quietly sophisticated colour in this model, and looking down at a leather sole in a dressing room mirror is a small pleasure of ownership. The weight of that sole also keeps the sandal from flapping, which makes a quiet difference over a long evening.