Hermes Oz Mule Women Suede Goatskin Gold Kelly Buckle Violet Glycine H241066Z VY355

Suede gives the Oz a softer face than the leather versions, and in Violet Glycine that softness and the colour work together: a greyed wisteria that looks like velvet in one light and dusty lilac in another, held down by a gold permabrass Kelly buckle.

The mule itself is goatskin suede on a black leather sole with an edge to match, a wisteria purple lambskin lining inside and a small lift of four-tenths of an inch. The strap crosses the instep high enough that the foot feels held without the need to curl toes to keep the shoe on.

I wear these with charcoal knitwear in early autumn and with pale denim all summer; the quieter the rest of the outfit, the better the lilac reads. The run is 36 to 41. On bare skin the suede is cool and never sticky, which is why mine get chosen over the leather mules in August.

The honest caution with suede mules is moisture. Bare feet in heat will leave their mark on the lining over a long day, and the nap flattens at the strap, so brush it up after wear and give the pair a day between outings. Spray them lightly each season; rain is still off-limits.

Gently used, the violet fades at the toe into a paler shade while the heel edge stays deep, a two-tone effect I did not plan but have grown fond of. Made in Italy. For a flat, it has a surprising amount to say.