Hermes JPG Shoulder Birkin 42 Bag Handmade In Clemence Calfskin Leather Gold Hardware 89 Noir

The first time I carried a Shoulder Birkin, I understood what the redesign was for. The 42 by 23 by 20 cm body is stretched wider than a classic Birkin, the height is trimmed, and the whole thing rides on the shoulder the way a tote does. In soft black Clemence with gold hardware it slouches gently against the body instead of standing off it.

Clemence is the reason this shape works. The leather is thick, matte and relaxed, so the wide strap settles comfortably and the bag folds a little when it is half full, which keeps it close on a crowded bus or at a market. It also holds a surprising amount: my daily carry of a long wallet, phone, keys, sunglasses and a folded tote disappears into the width, with room left for a light scarf.

Black with gold is a rich pairing. The warm metal lifts the matte black from austere to handsome, and the details, from the sangles to the clochette and the turn of the flap, are all smooth in use. I wear it with tailoring for meetings, and the same bag has done duty at dinners where a hand-held bag would have been awkward.

The trade-off is weight. Clemence is dense, and once it is well loaded the shoulder strap pressure is real by late afternoon; I swap sides out of habit. If you want a feather-light shoulder bag, this is not it. If you want one that gets more comfortable and more characterful every year, few shapes do better.