Hermes Izmir Sandal Men Swift Calfskin Black

Swift is the leather I recommend to anyone buying their first pair of this shape. It is smooth without being glossy, soft from the first wear, and it takes black so deeply that the sandal looks dyed through rather than painted on. There is no break-in period to speak of.

The grain sits somewhere between suede and polished calf, satin rather than shiny, and the colour stays even across the whole upper. Edges are cut square with the H opening at the vamp, and the sole measures a flat fourteen millimetres, keeping the profile slim on a hot day.

It comes in sizes 40 to 46. Swift gives a little with wear, which is why I took my usual number and found room from the outset; by the second week the leather had shaped itself to my foot and stayed there. If you prefer a looser feel, the half size up is the safer call.

Downside worth knowing: smooth calf marks more readily than the exotic versions of this sandal. A scraped kerb leaves a faint scuff, and a long day creases the leather over the toes. Regular brushing and an occasional touch of neutral cream keep it even.

With black there is no styling problem to solve. These work with everything from a linen suit to shorts and a tee, and in two summers of wear the surface has only improved. The sole has worn evenly too, with no flattening at the heel, which tells me the balance is right.