Hermes Finesse Earrings White Gold with Diamonds H219510B 00

Diamonds set in white gold look cold in the best sense, and the Finesse earrings, thirty-four stones and 0.92 carats, are cool, precise and remarkably light on the ear for their carat weight.

The motif measures 0.58 by 0.4 inches, a horizontal shape that follows the curve of the lobe rather than sitting on it like a button, and it takes its form from the toggle clasp the maison uses on its best-known bracelet, shrunk down until it becomes an ornament. The diamonds are small and uniform, so the piece reads as one surface of light, with the 750/1000 white gold polished to match.

I wear mine for anything that requires looking properly composed: presentations, evening receptions, family photographs. They suit pale skin and grey or black clothing especially well, and they stay subtle even when the rest of the outfit is colourful, which is rarer than it should be in diamond earrings. They also travel well, since the flat profile means no catching on scarves or headphones. They also travel well, since the flat profile means no catching on scarves or headphones.

Two honest points. White gold is usually rhodium finished and will eventually need re-plating, though mine have held their tone for years with sensible care. And diamonds this close-set want cleaning, since a gentle soak and a soft brush every few weeks keep them from going flat under everyday hand cream.

Made in France in solid white gold, and the pair I would recommend to anyone buying their first truly serious earrings, especially if a plain diamond stud has always felt a little anonymous.