Hermes Oz Mule Women Calfskin Sliver Kelly Buckle Naturel H211157Z A3340

Natural goatskin is the sleeper material in this collection. It starts pale and matte and turns slowly, in the way of untreated wood, and on the Oz mule that process is on full display from the instep strap to the open heel.

The mule pairs it with a palladium Kelly buckle and natural lambskin through the insole and lining, on a black leather sole trimmed to match. Heels are barely there, four-tenths of an inch in height, with a small difference to the forefoot, and the strap is cut to hold the top of the foot without pressure.

Mine arrived in spring and by autumn had gone the colour of weak tea, which I consider a fair exchange. Sizes run 36 to 41. I wear them with sand, stone and olive; leather this honest looks best against other honest materials rather than dark synthetics.

Two caveats, then. Natural leather takes every mark, and this mule sits so close to the ground that the lower edge collects its share; a matched cream and regular wiping keep the tone even. And the open heel hates rough ground, because there is nothing between the leather edge and the pavement.

What you get for the attention is a shoe that fits better every month as the goatskin moulds to your instep, and a sole that darkens like the handle of a favourite bag. Made in Italy. For anyone who likes leather that behaves like leather.