Hermes Match Sneaker Noir H261863ZH01390

A wet autumn commute is the fairest test of a black sneaker: grey puddles, dirty pavements, a train carriage at rush hour. The noir Match came home from that week looking like it had barely been outside, which is more than I can say for the white pair in the same rotation.

The upper is sport goatskin and calfskin with the perforated H en Biais pattern pressed through it, visible mostly in raking light where the holes cast tiny shadows. The sole sits at 0.6 inches, and sizes cover 36 to 41 with a spare set of laces included.

What I appreciate most is the restraint: there is no contrasting panel, no bright logo, just black on black with the perforation as its only ornament. It works with tailored trousers for the office and with denim at the weekend, which means fewer shoes get worn and these get worn out – slowly.

The goatskin gives the shoe a soft, slightly matte finish rather than a polished black, so it reads closer to textile than to leather from a distance. Underfoot, the half-inch-plus sole takes the edge off hard city surfaces without any of the bulk of a running shoe. The matte surface also resists looking greasy, which smooth black leather can do over time.

The practical downside: perforations are small dust traps, and on black leather debris is more visible until you brush it out. Black goatskin also creases where the toe flexes, which is unavoidable in any soft leather and looks better than stiff cracking ever would.