Hermes Kelly 18 Belt Epsom Calfskin Kelly Buckle Permabrass Yellow Gold Étoupe H069853CC18

Étoupe is one of those colours that people either describe as the perfect grey or as beige that cannot decide, and I am firmly in the first camp. On the Kelly 18, a 0.71 inch Epsom calfskin strap, it reads as a cool taupe with a hint of olive, and the yellow gold plated Kelly clasp gives it a warm edge.

The sliding mechanism deserves a word, because it is the reason a single belt works for so many bodies: the strap travels through the buckle, so you set the length at 21.7 inches or at 39.4, and anywhere between, without holes or punches.

I wear mine with white trousers and a black knit, which is the combination that made me stop doubting the colour. With grey flannel it goes monochrome and disappears; with cream it sharpens the whole outfit.

Out of honesty: Étoupe looks different under shop light than in daylight, and some people find it flat next to true grey tailoring. Also, the leather will pick up a shine at the buckle over time. Both are facts of a well-used belt. Made in France.

Care is simple, which suits a belt worn most days: Epsom wipes clean with a barely damp cloth, and a little colourless balm twice a year keeps the edges from drying. The grey will not darken the way tan leather does, so expect it to look the same in three winters.