Hermes Oran Sandal Women Epsom Calfskin 89 Black

There is a moment on every trip when I pack and realise the shoes are wrong: too bright for a dinner, too warm for a day out. Black flat sandals solve that, and these Epsom ones solve it in the tidiest way I know. The 89 black is a true, deep black with no brown in it, and the firm pressed grain keeps the whole sandal looking sharp after a day of walking.

Made in Italy, sizes 36 to 41, with the H cut-out and straight-cut edges across a natural leather sole. The heel is about a centimetre high, so the sandal is flat for all practical purposes but still keeps the hem of a long dress off the ground. Epsom is dense and shape-holding, so there are no crease lines to worry about and no softening in the H.

I wear black sandals with linen trousers, with a black dress, with white for contrast, and occasionally with a straw hat and nothing particularly considered, which black forgives. In the evening they read as more formal than they are, which is useful when you have only brought one pair.

The catch: black leather shows dust, salt and lint almost instantly, and the pressed grain means pale scuffs stand out where the colour lifts. A stiff brush and a slightly damp cloth fix both in seconds. Keep them away from coarse stone when you can, and they will look new for a remarkably long time.