Hermes Master Sneaker Blanc H261009Z 90360

Can a sneaker be smart enough for dinner? The Master comes close, mostly because of what it leaves out. There is no chunky midsole, no mesh, no loud branding – just supple white calfskin stretched over a slim last with a sole barely two-tenths of an inch thick.

That thin sole is the whole character of the shoe: it puts your foot close to the ground, so you feel the pavement and walk with a flatter, more deliberate step. A second pair of laces comes in the box, and the sizes run from 36 to 41, made in Italy.

I wore mine to a gallery opening with tailored trousers and no socks, and they read closer to a soft loafer than a trainer. The white calfskin creases gently across the vamp after a few wears, which is normal for leather this supple and looks intentional rather than worn out.

Flat laces thread through simple eyelets without any padding collars or heel tabs to distract from the line. The tongue is thin, the toe box low, and from above the shoe is almost a silhouette – which is exactly why it slides under wide trousers instead of clashing with them.

Be honest about the thin sole before you commit: there is little cushioning, so long days on cobblestones will make themselves felt, and pale calfskin needs wiping after dusty streets. Treat it as a city shoe, not a walking shoe, and it stays crisp for years. Mine have taken on a faint latte tone at the creases, which suits them.